Lowest Action Electric Guitars – My Top Picks & Advice!

String action is a very personal thing. Some of us prefer to fight it a little while others prefer having a supersonic highway of a fretboard. Moreover, those of us who play slide a lot tend to push it up even further.

So, what’s the catch, why is this article worth reading?

Well, to begin with, in the past almost three decades of playing the instrument I’ve been all over the place in terms of action and I learned a thing or two that I would like to share with you.

Secondly, there’s a thin red line dividing ultimate control and a dead-sounding guitar. I’ll help you navigate it right here.

Finally, if you have ever tried to shred like one of your favorite guitarists, only to not be able to catch up even after months or years of practice, the answer might be that your strings are too high. Or, as we like to call it, your action is up in the clouds.

A properly setup instrument is the best vessel to reach hypersonic velocity and go into guitar God mode. Yes, to reach those blistering speeds, the best shredders have their action set as low as possible. But what exactly does low action mean? Furthermore, how low can you go without killing your instrument’s tone, mojo, and vibe?

In this article, we will go over what action actually is, how to set it right, and why you want a low action on your guitar to make it comfortable to play but not too low as to make it sound dead and dull.

But before I dive deep into all that, let’s check out a few of my favorite low-action electric guitars. These are either known to have (out of the box) or handle (i.e. after you adjust it) the lowest of actions.

Low Action Electric Guitars

Any guitar can have a low action. It is simply a matter of making the right adjustments.

Every guitar and every guitarist can also benefit from a low action. The catch is that some guitars are designed specifically to have as low an action as possible. In other words, they can go the lowest without affecting tone and playability. These are usually guitars that are intended to be played by metal guitarists. You can think of brands like Ibanez, Jackson, and ESP, among others.

Let’s take a look at the best candidates.

Ibanez

The Ibanez RG series is the company’s flagship guitar line and also one of their best. The RG Standard is affordable and features a floating tremolo for easy action adjustment.

In the same vein, the Q Series and the S series are Ibanez’s cutting-edge models dedicated to virtuosos and shredders. Models like the Ibanez Q52PB and the S1070PBZ are amazing instruments to have the action lower than the Nautilus under the commands of Captain Nemo.

I have to say it, I have never played a double-locking tremolo system that goes lower than Ibanez’s own LoPro Edge tremolo system.

Finally, the Prestige series of guitars are made with speed in mind. They feature a low action right out of the box, requiring minimal adjustment.

Jackson

Most of Jackson’s catalog is dedicated to riffmeisters and shredders. You can find models dedicated to metal legends like Randy Rhoads, Marty Friedman, Scott Ian, and Adrian Smith to just name a few.

I can suggest some Jackson guitar models. First, the Jackson American Series Soloist SL2DX, or its more affordable version, the X Series Soloist SLX DX. For the most daring, guitars like the JS32 Warrior, the Pro Series King V, and the more affordable JS Series King V are just great.

Moreover, Jackson is one of the best modern metal guitars manufacturers in the world right now. Many of their models feature a 12” to 16” compound radius and a floating bridge. Perfect for low action.

ESP

This Japanese brand has been around since the mid ‘70s and is considered one of the biggest names in metal and fast, low action guitars in the world. I mean, having Ron Wood (Rolling Stones), Mick Thomson (Slipknot), Gary Holt (Slayer), Lars Frederiksen (Rancid), and Richard Z (Rammstein) in the same catalog is nothing short from outrageous.

Well, the good news is that most of the guitars made by ESP are very low-action friendly. Yes, the neck radius, tremolo systems, and thin necks have made people like Kirk Hammett and James Hetfield shred for decades.

Let me suggest some ESP models. To begin with, the ESP LTD Andy LaRocque ALR-II Signature features a compound radius going from 11.81″ to 15.74″. Also, the ESP LTD James Hetfield Signature Snakebyte features a cool shape and a 13.7″ radius. The same is true for the more affordable LTD EX-200.

For Metallica fans, the ESP LTD Kirk Hammett Signature KH-602 features the same radius and thin neck with a low-profile double-locking tremolo system. If that’s too pricey for your budget, the ESP LTD MH-203QM features the same radius, neck, and tremolo for way less (and you can still play your favorite Metallica riffs effortlessly).

Finally, the ESP LTD EC-1000 has a single-cut Les Paul shaped body with a 13.7” radius fretboard. While it isn’t the flattest on this list, it is still more than enough to get a low action for fast, effortless playing. In the same vein but at a more affordable price, I recently played and loved the LTD GH-200 Gary Holt Signature. It’s a beast of a guitar with a 13.77” radius and floating tremolo that’s ideal to play with the lowest action possible.

Schecter

Schecter had its golden age back in the early ‘00s when bands like Papa Roach, Alien Ant Farm, and Linkin Park were taking over the world wielding Schecter guitars.

Well, although Nü Metal didn’t age so well, the brand kept on going and made some great guitars that can help you reach the speed of light any time. Let me suggest some of those guitars.

The Avenger Blackjack, the Banshee Mach-6 Evertune, and the C-1 FR SLS Elite all feature a 12 to 16” compound radius that’s as flat as it gets. If those are too pricey for your budget, the Damien-6 FR SBK and the Omen Elite-6 FR offer a 14” radius and floating tremolo, all you need to go ultra-low.

Finally, Schecter’s Sun Valley Super Shredder, as the name implies, was designed with speed in mind. A flat 12” – 16” compound neck and floating tremolo system allow super low-action playing.

Fender

If a metal-focused guitar isn’t quite your taste, companies like Fender also make guitars that are very low-action friendly. Their Special Edition Custom Tele has a very flat 15.75” radius neck that will have you shredding with the best of them.

Nevertheless, if you want something that looks and sounds more like the traditional Fender tones, the American Ultra II Series features a compound 10 to 14” radius and traditional pickup combinations (or HSS in the case of the Strat).

The Telecaster, the Stratocaster, and the futuristic-looking Meteora for the most daring are great-sounding, superb-playing instruments to set up as low as possible and enjoy years of effortless playing fun.

With all this out of the way, let’s delve deeper into guitar action, various factors related to it, and how low you can (or should) go.

What is Action?

Action is what a movie director shouts before the actors begin playing their roles, right? Well, in guitar world, the action of a guitar refers to the distance between the strings and the frets. I’m talking about the space between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string. The lower the number is, the lower the action will be and vice versa.

In other words, the closer the strings are to the frets, the lower the action. The further the strings are, the higher the action.

What do we talk about when we talk about low action? Well, a distance of 1.5 to 2mm is considered a low action.

What Determines the Action on Your Guitar?

The first thing to say here, for people who are completely unaware of the topic (weren’t we all in those shoes at some point?) is that the action on a guitar isn’t static but movable. I mean, it’s not like tuning it, but it’s something you’ll have to adjust frequently. Therefore, you can do some trial and error until you find the sweet spot (every guitar has one) instead of a set-it-and-forget-it approach.

Let’s break it down, shall we? The height of your guitar’s action is determined by four things:

• The frets
• The neck
• The nut
• The bridge

The Frets

As you play your guitar’s strings against the guitar’s frets, these start to wear out. After all, it’s a metal-against-metal friction that eventually leaves its toll. The thing is that they don’t wear out evenly, you bend, press, and play some frets more than others.

For example, if you’re Noel Gallagher conquering the world in the nineties playing open chords almost exclusively, all the frets beyond the 12th would be flawless but the first five really worn.

To get a low action, your frets need to be leveled. This means that every fret on the guitar’s neck is at the exact same height from bottom to top and there are no spaces (pool-like depressions caused by the string) in any frets. This is done by filing down the frets and making sure that they are rounded. This is a process called fret dressing.

The Neck

The frets go on the guitar’s neck. Therefore, if the base isn’t straight, leveling the frets is useless. It’s as senseless as building skyscrapers on moving ground. What I’m trying to say is that your guitar’s neck also needs to be straight or close to it.

As you might know, the neck is straightened by adjusting the truss rod inside. It is a whole other topic, but the neck’s truss rod is another thing that has to be adjusted from time to time. This is especially true if you live in a humid area or the guitar goes through extreme temperature changes (while on the road or just at home with the seasons).

Yes, most guitars are made out of wood, an organic material that reacts to weather changes.

Most guitar necks aren’t perfectly straight, but have a slight curvature. You can usually adjust the curvature of the neck by using an allen key to adjust the truss rod. The place where you insert the allen key is usually in the headstock above the nut for electrics and under the soundhole at the beginning of the neck for acoustics.

There are exceptions, like some Fenders that can be adjusted from the base of the neck.

A flatter fretboard radius also makes it easier to have a lower action. The radius of a fretboard is the curvature between the first and sixth string. Anything above 12 inches is perfect for a very low action. Some guitars, like Steve Vai’s Pia go as far as 16 inches, while ‘50s style Telecasters have 7.25 inches.

Finally, I wouldn’t touch that truss rod on my own if I haven’t seen anyone do it before. This is very delicate and can cause irreversible damage to your guitar (especially with mahogany necks). Always try having some trusty, knowledgeable, nerdy friend (like this colleague here writing this) to mentor you at first.

Once you learn how to do it perfectly, you’ll be a hero at most gigs.

Nut

In case you’re scratching your head right now wondering where’s the nut in a guitar, let me clear that out for you right away; it’s the little thingy the strings go through after the fretboard and before the tuners.

If the guitar’s fretboard is Mount Everest, the nut is its summit.

It’s usually made of plastic, brass, bone, or any other synthetic material (like Tusq). The height of the nut will also determine how close the strings are to the frets. You can adjust the height of the nut by filing it down, similar to how the frets are filed down but from the other side.

If you look at the guitar’s neck from the side, the nut is stuck inside. There’s a perfectly-carved slot to accommodate it. The key is that the nut is either placed with very little glue, or with no glue at all. So, it can easily be removed to file the bottom and reduce string height.

One precaution that will help you is thinking that you can always take away more, but if it’s too much, you need a new nut. This means to file it down slowly until you have your strings at the height you want them. You can check it by putting the high and low E strings and testing the height.

The Bridge

The Bridges family is as varied as families ever get. There are some trusty old ones, like the great-grandad, the stoptail bridge, grandpa Tune-o-Matic, or the synchronized tremolo uncle. From that generation we also have the good ole Bigsby and Maestro Vibrola, far elderly relatives who love vibrato effects.

Now, as it happens in all families, this new generation is bolder but also more refined. Bridges like the double-locking Floyd Rose, the Evertune, or the Kahler can be fine-tuned to the extreme. Even the synchronized tremolo got modernized and we now have a young cousin with two pivots rather than six springs.

All of them demand a slightly different playing style but they also unlock the path to an even lower string action.

So, the way you adjust each bridge is specific to that model. Nevertheless, (don’t forget they are a family), most of them feature a way to heighten or lower the action to accommodate player’s tastes and demands.

Lastly, let me also add that the bridge is only adjusted once the neck is straight and the nut has been filed down. Although every bridge is different, this is usually done by tightening screws or adjusting with an Allen Key on either side of the bridge saddle.

How to Lower Your Action?

The steps above are not in an arbitrary order. That’s how to lower the action on your guitar in a step-by-step approach. First, check the frets, then neck, next the nut, and finally the bridge.

These steps are usually part of a guitar setup that you can have a luthier or guitar technician perform.

Although that’s the ideal scenario to move your guitar’s action, it’s not always possible to stop the world and perform all those steps on the road. Believe me, if there’s something that the years have taught me is that you need to be able to perform at your best during the gig, and for that your instrument needs to be well set up.

So, learning how to straighten your neck and adjust the bridge is a good idea. This will allow you to adjust the action of your guitar to make quick and easy adjustments. In other words, you might not have the time to file down your frets or take out the nut to make adjustments but if you can work your way with the truss rod and the bridge, action will go down significantly anyway.

Then, when you’re done with the tour, take your axe to your favorite technician, or dust off your tool box and do the sanding to leave it in perfect conditions.

Many modern guitars have features that make adjusting your action very easy. For example, guitars with Floyd Rose tremolo systems can have the bridge lowered or raised using a single Allen Key to adjust the action (usually provided by the manufacturer and attached to the back of the headstock).

If all these steps and tools sound alien to you, it’s probably not a good idea to attempt it yourself. That said, as long as you don’t touch the truss rod or do any excessive sanding, in the worst case, you’ll ruin the state of a guitar which was already perfectly set up.

If that ever happens, just take it to a nearby guitar tech or guitar store and let them do all the wizardry.

Why You Would Want a Low Action

Having a low action has a number of benefits, the greatest being that it makes playing easier.

Since your strings have a shorter distance to travel, you don’t need to press as hard for the strings to make contact with the frets. This makes moving between notes and chords smoother and easier.

Moreover, a lower action lets you play much faster than you would on a medium or high action. Believe me, it’s like changing the string gauge to something thinner. It’s the guitarist’s version of training with extra weight to perform better without it.

Imagine you’re going for the Gold Medal at 100 mts and running the distance with an extra 20 kg. just to drop them on competition day. That’s exactly how it feels to play a guitar perfectly set up with a low action. This is especially important for metal, fusion, and jazz players.

Personally, I always prefer lower action guitars, not so much for acoustics, but very much so for electrics. The main reason being it greatly reduces fatigue when I need to play fast or a lot during long gigs.

I’ve also found that it’s harder to mess up chords as a beginner if one or two fingers fail to press the string onto the fretboard completely with lower action guitars. So, even when I teach guitar to beginners, I notice that they always appreciate lower-action guitars.

It’s a beautiful face to see when a fellow guitar player learning the craft cracks the code and can suddenly do something he or she had been trying for a long time. The usual question I receive is “How come your guitar is so easy to play?” I mostly end up referring them to a trusty tech so they can too enjoy the wonders of a low-action guitar.

Disadvantages of a Low Action

Exhibit A: A dead SRV Strat

Let me start this section with a short story of mine. I was working at the Fender dealer in my city and had recently sold a used SRV Strat to a session player who came in to play almost every guitar in the store. It was a marathon that ended with him walking out the door with that vintage tweed hardshell case and all his savings spent on a world-class guitar.

He was back two weeks later, utterly disappointed, and, frankly, kind of angry, especially at me. He just sat down with his guitar and played it for me plugged into a Mesa Boogie Lone Star. The guitar was far from being the ferocious beast full of high-end, midrange, and killer bottom I had sold him.

I asked if he had changed pickups and he looked at me and said “All I did was have it set up lower by my tech”. He passed on the guitar for me to play it and it was truly low, like playing an Ibanez JS1000 (Joe likes it really low).

The catch is that the ultra-low action had also taken away all the mojo and the spanking mids with razor-like high-end the Texas Specials can deliver. Furthermore, every chord felt lacking without that midrange-driven bottom-end only overdriven Strats can deliver.

I looked at him and said “You killed the vibe, man, the guitar is choking.” Yes, that Strat demanded for a higher action to do its thing, and although it might not play like absolute butter, the C-shaped neck should still be very comfortable.

We re-setted the action at the store, and just like magic, the guitar went back to its roaring glory and punching nature. If you haven’t played one, the SRV Strat is a glorious guitar, but it needs to have proper action to sound like the beast of an axe it is.

(Can’t You Hear My) Fret Buzz

While a low action does make playing easier, it does come with a few extra risks besides tone.

If you set the action too low, you might experience fret buzz. This is when the string touches other frets after it has been plucked, causing a buzzing noise. I don’t think I’m exaggerating when I say that this is one of the most annoying things to happen to a guitar. It’s so bad that it can keep a guitar from making an on stage appearance.

Tales of Notes Fretting Out

Extremely low action also expose you to notes ‘fretting out’. This means that the notes don’t even sound after being plucked, effectively being muted by the frets. Again, that’s TKO for your guitar; see you later, alligator.

No Sustain? Try the Action

Finally, the action might also be high enough to avoid fretting out, or fret buzz but might still be too low and affect the sustain. If the action is too low, you could run into an issue where your notes don’t ring out as long as you want them to.

Don’t Do it, First, Try These

Don’t sacrifice your instrument’s tone for some extra speed or comfort. Setting the action too low might affect more than just playability. Plus, some guitars can go further than others because of high fretboard radii, ultra-low bridges, and super-thin necks.

Let’s take a look at some great guitars that will allow your low-action aspirations to go wild. Beware, though, making the transition back to guitar with higher strings might be Mission: Impossible for many.

Final Word

When you started this article you were probably wondering what low action was, how to set up your guitar for it, what the pitfalls to avoid were, and what guitars could be set up with the lowest action.

Well, it’s been a hell of a ride, but we made it to the end and you now have the answers to all those questions plus several models from different brands to look at if you want to go really low.

You have no more excuses but to sit down and play, play, and keep on playing the right guitar until you become the guitarist you always wanted to be. Believe me, the right guitar with a proper set up can be the perfect way to pour all your talent into a music composition that will stir the music world.

So, there you have it. Everything you need to know about low action, along with a few picks of low action friendly electric guitars. With this knowledge, you are ready to set your action so low that you can reach your full potential. And hopefully, one day, you will be outshredding everyone out there.

Happy (fast and low) playing!